How-To : Home Improvement

Luckily a high percentage of aluminum which is already being heavily recycled today, can make the task of replacing windows less expensive. First of all its all but impossible to find a replacement for stock windows at your local lumber yard or home improvement. Home improvement guides will oftentimes explain in full detail how to install a replacement window without the assistance of a hired contractor. Even repairing the storm windows or replacing them will bring up the climate control in your home. First of all the best prices are typically for bargain replacement windows that may not be built well and might not last long.

Different types of window films can make replacing windows a long and tedious decision. Another advantage of a window replacement is it allows sunlight to enter the building, but keeps other outdoor effects out. Have your helper hold the window in position while you raise and lower the pane to get the fit just right when doing the window replacement yourself. For many people replacement windows bring enough change in the environment of their home that it justifies the cost for the upgrade. First of all i have tried several local lumber and hardware stores to see if they had a replacement for a stock window. Have your installer explain the job to you when replacing rotted out windows, so there won’t be any surprises of unexpected costs down the road. Does the local window replacement distributor buy the units from the manufacturer and then install?.

Before assuming you can reattach your own alarm system to your replacement window you may want to check with your alarm company. Another advantage of a fiberglass frame when replacing your windows is it reacts to outdoor temperature changes much like glass panes do. Different types of replacement windows, some of which look better than others, can be found for great prices when starting a replacement window project. Building your own replacement window requires the use of several pieces of heavy machinery.

Home improvement contractors occasionally only specialize in replacement windows, simply because many people have a hard time installing them on their own. First of all if you have single-pane windows you’ll probably really be happy to know that the replacement window is inexpensive. Another advantage to considering vinyl replacement windows is you don’t have to cut the existing windows. All the windows and doors should be replaced if they were originally built with on the household before the mid 1980’s.

[tags]window replacement[/tags]

If you have a two story house, and you are going to replace the windows on both the first and second floor, there are little tricks that you can use to make the upper floor job a bit safer and easier. If the windows are replacement style frames, you install them from inside the house, so the only thing that you will do different than the first floor windows is to use an extension ladder to caulk the exterior. So, let’s talk about doing retrofit style windows on the second floor. You can usually remove the old window from inside the house, but if you have a picture window, you have to use the extension ladder to remove the stops holding the glass in place. Then, you can go inside the house and cut the glass free from the frame using a utility knife. Put a tarp on the ground below the window, to catch any glass pieces that may fall during the removal. Also, don’t forget to keep people and animals away from the area below the window.

Once you are ready to install the new window, you can do it from inside the house. Remember, when installing retrofit style frames, you install them from outside and raise them into place. Instead, carry the window upstairs. If it’s a slider, remove the screen and sliding panel. Then, using a helper, you can angle the window frame through the opening, extending the retrofit lip completely outside of the opening before pulling the window back toward you, and installing the window as if you were outside. Have your helper hold the center bar while you put a screw into the top center to hold the frame in place. You can do the entire installation from inside. The only time you will need to go on the extension ladder is when you’re ready to caulk the exterior. Make sure you put a generous amount of caulk where the top of the frame meets the stucco or exterior material. You don’t want any water getting past the new frame, otherwise it can work it’s way through the wall and down through the ceiling or the walls. You would be surprised how easily two people can install an 8′ wide by 5′ tall sliding window on the second floor if you remove the sliding panels and screens. In fact, my helper and I did one 10′ wide and 5′ high. That was the biggest one I ever did on the second floor. You can run a bead of caulk on the outside face of the old frame before installing the new frame right from inside the room.

Now, if you are installing a picture window, it’s a little tougher. You can’t remove any panels to lighten the load, and it’s tougher to get as firm a grip on the frame. But, on the positive side, picture windows aren’t usually much larger than 3′ by 5′ on the second floor. If you have a large picture window, or if you have several to install, I have access to suction cups that are used in the glass industry. You can attach them to the glass and use them as handles when extending the frame outside through the opening. Contact me on my website at How to install windows if you want to get pricing on suction cups. You can get the smaller, inexpensive models for around $40 each.

So, if you are hesitating to replace your old windows yourself because you didn’t think you could do the upstairs windows, now you know you can. Next week’s topic is going to be about replacing the rollers on your patio door. If you can’t hardly open your sliding glass door anymore, a couple of new rollers can make all the difference in the world.

John Rocco has been installing
replacement windows since 1978.
To learn more, visit How To Install Windows

[tags]vinyl windows, replacement windows, installing windows, how to install windows[/tags]

One of the first steps in the construction of a new home is
setting the steel beams and columns in the basement and/or crawl
space. This supports the floor joists and usually runs the length
of the house at mid span in most homes. Not only does this system
support the floor, but usually has the weight of bearing walls,
ceilings, second floors, second floor bearing walls and sometimes
roofs transfered down to it.

The first step is to install the sill plates on the foundation
wall . This gives you a place to nail 2×4 bracing to hold columns and beams in place while you install them. Once set in place these braces hold the steel till the floor joists are nailed in to take their place.

Before I continue, a word of caution. Homebuilding can be a
dangerous activity. Care and safety are a must in all phases of
the construction process. Setting steel definitely falls into
this category. Beams can weigh anywhere from 100 to 400 pounds
depending on their size and length. Beams can be lifted into
place manually but I would recommend the use of a crane. Not only
can the beams be put in place safely, but it can also quicken the
process.

With the sill plates in place the steel can be set. One end of
the first beam typically starts in a beam pocket formed into the
top of the foundation wall. The other end sits on top of a lally
column. A typical column is 3 1/2″ in diameter and filled with
concrete. It has a flange welded to the top with holes in it that
match holes in the bottom flange of the beam. The beam is lowered
onto the column and then bolted together.

To make this happen, I like to use four people. One to hold the
beam in the pocket, one to hold the column, one man on a ladder
to guide and bolt the beam onto the column and one man to nail
off bracing to sill plates. Braces (2×4’s) are laid flat on the
bottom flange of the beam on both sides of the web and then
nailed to the sill plates on opposing walls.

The next beam is now ready to be set. With one person holding the
next column, the next beam is lowered onto the new column and the
previous column. Men on ladders guide it into place and bolt it
down. Again 2×4’s are used to brace the beam to the outside
foundation walls. This procedure is repeated until you get to a
beam pocket at the other end of the building, or a column that
terminates at an opening.

To keep beams level and straight, I like to use a dry line from
beam pocket to beam pocket (this can also be done with a laser).
First I drive a nail in the sill plate corresponding with the
edge of the beam. Most beams run pocket to pocket. If this is the
case I’ll drive a nail in the plate by that pocket at the same
dimension as the first nail, measured from a common reference
point, usually the front or back sill plate. I now have a
reference point to line up the edge of the beams with and result
in a straight installation.

Assuming the foundation and sill plates are level, this string
can be used to level the steel beams (again, a laser can be
used). After most beam installations a 2x plate is either bolted
or shot with a powder actuated tool to the top of the beam. This
is to bring it level with the sill plates and to provide nailing
for the floor joists. Using a 2x block as a gauge, lay it on the
top of the beam where it sits on a column. This simulates the
plate that will be installed later. Shim the column till the
block touches the bottom of the dry line. Repeat this for every
column. Columns are shimmed with steel plates of various
thicknesses. These shims are provided by the steel supplier.

The next step is to plumb the lally columns on their concrete
pads. Using a 4-foot level, the columns are tapped into plumb
with a sledge hammer. Make sure the steel shims remain under the
columns. After all columns are plumbed up, the concrete floor can
be poured. This holds the columns in place.

The next step is to frame the floor. Once the floor joists are
nailed in place all bracing can be removed. The joists are now
holding the steel in place.

Just like the foundation, setting the steel straight and level is
important to producing a quality home.

(c) Mike Merisko www.sawkerfs.com

Mike Merisko has been a carpenter for 26 years. Most of those years were spent in the homebuilding and remodeling industries. He was also in business as a carpentry and general contractor. While that is his forte, he also has experience in bridge building, commercial construction, and exhibit building which is how he earns his living these days. You can browse through articles by him and others at his website http://www.sawkerfs.com or visit his blog at http://www.sawkerfs.blogspot.com

[tags]homebuilding, home improvement, remodeling, houseplans, building your own home,windows,carpentry,c[/tags]