How-To : Home Improvement

Whether you need heat in winter or air conditioning in summer, you run the risk of throwing away money on utilities. You need not do this by making painless home improvements.

Home Improvements – Get Your Envelope In Order

Your house is an enclosed structure designed to keep rain, cold, heat, wind, snow and so on out. In contrast, all of those things want in. If you are not careful, Mother Nature will rob you blind. Yes, I am talking about the thermal envelope of your home.

The thermal envelope refers to the protective pocket around your living space. Much like wearing gloves in the snow, you want the envelope to provide a complete insulation barrier between you and the elements. If there are gaps or weak areas, your hard earned money is flowing out of them. Upgrading or maintaining your envelope can save you a bundle.

Insulation can be a killer when it comes to your envelope. Most developers build homes to the minimum requirements because they are focused on profits. Insulation is noted by R values, a method of determining how resistant the insulation is to transferring heat. If you check the walls of your house, an R-11 value will most likely be present. This is bad. R-11 is the minimum required. Upgrade to R-20 or R-30 in the walls and R-70 in the ceiling and floor areas. The temperatures in the house will become more consistent because the heat transfer will stop. This means the house stays warmer for longer in the winter and cooler for longer in the summer. The change will be dramatic.

Windows can be a killer, accounting for as much as 25 percent of your energy loss. The answer is relatively simple. Install Energy Star approved windows and get those frames into shape.

Doors are another area that can kill you. The issue is not so much the door itself, but the framing around it. Make sure your doors are flush to the frames. Installing small seal pads along the inside of the doorstops can make a major difference because they cut off air flow. Of course, the downside is the door doesn’t make much noise when you slam it in anger, but you will just have to tough it out.

Upgrading your envelope can make a major difference in your utility bill. If you can save $100 a month, you will save $1,200 a year. If you live in the home for 10 years, that is an easy $12,000.

Rick Chapo is with SolarCompanies.com, a directory of solar energy companies. Visit us to read more solar power articles.

Rights of light – What a minefield this topic is when developing or extending a property. This is potentially one of the most subjective Planning issues their is. Most Planning Departments will have guidance but I guarantee it will be specific in parts & definitely woolly or non specific in other areas leaving the subject wide open to interpretation.

One of the most common areas for debate is with regard to side windows on neighbouring properties. The general rule of thumb is whether or not the neighbours side window is a principal or secondary window. If if is the only principal window for a neighbours room then the chances are the Planners will pay great attention to your development or extension. They will want to be satisfied that the window is not interrupted from skylight by your building project. Secondary side windows on the other hand to habitable rooms or windows to non habitable rooms are far less contentious & are often ignored by Planning Departments in their impact assessments. However, this is only a rule of thumb & surprises do sometimes occur. These surprises often arise from neighbour induced objections where the Planning Officer is forced to stick out his neck & make a case to support your scheme against that of the neighbours vitriol – you don’t see many headless Planning Officers these days do you – you get my point.

What about the scientific proving of light issues I hear you ask to override the Planning Officers negative opinion? Well yes their is guidance from the BRE called ‘Site layout planning for daylight & sunlight – A guide to good practice’ by PJ Littlefair. However, this

Storm windows come in a variety of styles and colors to match most home
applications. Triple track, combination windows and screen storm windows are designed for installation over double hung windows.

Style variations include sliding window, double-hung, half-screen, and full-screen
and picture windows. Finishes include mill-finished aluminum, white, brown, and
almond.

They are permanently installed and can be opened any time with a screen slid into
place for ventilation.

Measure your existing window to determine the size of storm windows to order.
First, measure the width of the inside of your window jamb at the top, middle and
bottom. Then measure the height at the right, Center and left sides.

Double track combination units are also available and they cost less. Both kinds are
sold almost everywhere, and can be bought with or without the cost of installation.

Most suppliers will order to the closest 1/8″, so give exact measurements when
ordering. It’s better to be a little too small than too big when ordering storm
windows. You can save a few dollars 15% to 20% of the purchase price by installing
storm windows yourself.

Once your storm windows have arrived, test-fit them to make sure they’re the right
size. But you’ll need some tools: caulking gun, drill, and screwdriver. In most cases
it will be easier to have the supplier install your storm windows for you, although it
will cost more.

Apply a thin bead of caulk to the outer edges of the window stop at the top and
sides. Distribute the caulk as evenly as possible. Do not caulk the bottom of the
storm window. You’ll want to allow room for rain and moisture to run off the sill. It
will take anywhere from several days to a few weeks to make up your order before
the supplier returns to install them.

Insert the storm window into the opening. Make sure to center the window between
the side stops. It’s best to set the window tight against the sill so that the window
has ample support. Installation should take less than one day, depending on how
many windows are involved.

Two very important items should be checked to make sure the installation is
properly done. Most windows are predrilled. If this is not the case, drill holes 12″
apart and centered over the window stops. Make sure that both the window sashes
and screen sash move smoothly and seal tightly when closed after installation.

About The Author:

Roger King is a successful author and publisher of http://www.1st-home-decor.com
Storm windows and ideas to showcase your homes.